Singapore

I realized while wandering up and down the tree lined, shopping center-inundated, mobile-phone-addict-populated streets, that the reason I feel ambivalent about Singapore is that while there are things I really dislike about it, there is a lot to admire about Singapore.

Singapore is unique within Asia. It's wealthy like Hong Kong, it's got hot humid weather like most of southeast Asia. Some of its strengths are also its weaknesses. Here's a list:

"Pretty cool"  

"Could be better" Weather: seldom below 70F, year round   When it rains, it really rains. If you look in the dictionary under "torrent" there's a picture of Singapore during a rain storm. First World. Modern, easy to get around. It isn't "like work" to hang out in Singapore, unlike say India. It's "Foreigner Friendly". Clean: when you arrive from the airport the first time, you think they painted and landscaped the whole country, that day, just for you. It makes Toronto (probably the cleanest city in North America) look shabby.   Can be a little too modern, old facades are torn down and replaced with new ones intended to look old while being new. Food, glorious food! The nation as a whole is getting fat (this is all relative; let's just say it isn't hard spotting the Americans here). The government has been "guiding" the population toward healthier eating habits   There are so many choices, sometimes I am literally overwhelmed and can't decide. There is no reason to be hungry in Singapore. Food's cheap, too. It's safe. Government policies make crime rare, and violent crime exceedingly rare. Drug trafficking offenses are punishable by death.  Recidivism in such cases is very low.

Criminal punishment often includes flogging ("caning"). It is (I'm told) astonishingly painful. If the convict passes out during the procedure from the pain, it is suspended until he is conscious again.   Policies can boarder on the Draconian. Turns out chewing gum isn't illegal... but selling it can bring a $1200 fine. It is illegal not to flush a public toilet. It is illegal to pee in an elevator. Now, it should be illegal to pee in an elevator — but to legislate that?

There are t-shirts for sale in Singapore that read "Singapore is a fine city" — with a list of some of the more entertaining fines. The government launches huge public campaigns to promote "what's right"   "Ask for less oil" a sign says at a fast food shop. Doubtful the vendor chose to put that one up. "Speak Mandarin, it's your heritage". "Be Courteous to Visitors". All of these are real-life examples. "Eat more spinach" (I made that one up — but it could be next!) Road traffic is extensively managed, with a series of taxes and road use fees designed to reduce the number of cars and make people using the congested routes pay more. Each card is equipped with a smartcard, and overhead gantries monitor when cars pass through certain areas of the city a certain times of the day — and charges them accordingly. It's called ERP — Electronic Road Pricing.   A "Certificate of Entitlement" (the right to purchase a car) can cost US$20,000. That doesn't include road taxes, insurance — nor the cost of the car itself. There is a huge duty (190%?) on imported cars. And all cars are imported.

I don't know any other place with as many rules about driving, or needed permits.

As an aside, remember Americans' outrage some years ago, when Michael Fay was fined and flogged for spray-painting a car? Well that car could easily have cost US$200,000 — and Fay was a repeat offender. He got off easily in a place where owning a car — especially a fancy one — is only a dream for many. Excellent subway system   What's not to like? The best airport in the world. The easiest Customs and Immigration in the world. There are other excellent airports, but the combination of the airport and entry procedures is a real winner. They put in automated systems for Residents — which cuts down the time to enter to about 15 seconds. I've never seen them used — because the regular system usually takes less than a minute per person. Astonishing.   By definition, every other airport is inferior. You have never experienced an airport on par with Singapore Chiangi. Fabulous air conditioning.