Saigon
/ Ho Chi Minh CitySaigon
/ Ho Chi Minh CitySaigon is sometimes described as the "Los Angeles of Vietnam". I am not sure this is a good thing. Hectic and chaotic, said to be a shopping mecca... We found good values, crazy traffic — the Los Angeles metaphor does apply.
Background: Originally settled by the Khmer (Cambodian people), the Vietnamese took control of this region in the 17th century. After the French conquered Saigon, in 1859, they made it the capital of Cochin China in 1862, extending and embellishing the city with broad boulevards and elegant architecture. Four and a half million people had made Saigon their home by 1969, but the city was all but evacuated when it fell to the North in 1975. Despite changing its name to Ho Chi Minh City, locals were reluctant to adopt the new name. So the authorities have compromised, allowing the central area to be called 'Saigon.' The current population is believed between six and seven million.
11/8/01 2pm — Arrived Saigon (now "Ho Chi Minh City", or just "HCMC") around two PM, allowing for about 30 minutes delay in our flight departure from Hanoi, and 20 minutes or so to get the luggage. It's hot here - about 90F, and humid. Hanoi was much more pleasant. Kathy's taking a siesta just now — a smart move I think. The Vietnam Air flight was fine: quick check-in, clean airport, Boeing 767, adequate on-board meal, no smoking. I'd expected worse.
First impressions: Saigon seems cleaner and more "Western" than Hanoi. It's certainly more developed; there are many more signs in English than in Hanoi (where there were almost none). Everything we read tells us to be wary of pickpockets and others intent on separating us from our valuables: we'll take as little as necessary with me out walking (including my normally "holstered" camera). I don't think it'll be a problem, but it pays to be cautious. "A fool and his money are soon parted". Also noticed that there are some people here who are a bit plump - this was not the case in Hanoi.
11/9/01 6:30am — Got up early to beat the heat, beat-feet to the street before a mediocre breakfast at the hotel. Afternoon siesta, pool visit, evening wandering markets (wondering where all the Pickpockers are?). Found an excellent Chinese restaurant — full of Asians (always a good sign), and nary a Westerner (usually a good sign — the joints that specialize in Tourists usually don't have very interesting food — catering to the masses).
11/10/01 5:30am — I hope this is not a trend in our waking times (at least, Scott's). Today we set out at 7am to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels and the "Cao" Religion Temple. The two are completely unrelated except for proximity — one's about 70km away, the other is 60km farther. We got back to town around 4pm.
The Cu Chi Tunnels are just one set (updated for Tourists) of the 250 kilometers of tunnels built by the Viet Cong to fight against the Americans during the war in Vietnam. The experience was somewhat sobering, definitely interesting, but for me (Scott) a bit disappointing because of the Tourist schlock. Click on the links to see our experiences at the Cu Chi Tunnels and Cao Temple.
Here's our hotel in Saigon, the Majestic. It's nice but overrun with Tourist groups; the food is overly western and overly priced, and the "traditional Vietnamese entertainment" was so loud we couldn't stand to eat in that restaurant. Aside from that, it's perfectly lovely -It does have a great location.
Next stop is the Mekong Delta. It's looking... wet at this juncture [Update: it wasn't — weather was perfect].
(Cu Chi and Cao photos are on their page)
It's not that Saigon was totally unattractive, it's just that none of the street-scenes we saw were particularly remarkable. They could have been any city in developing-Asia. So, no snapshots here for Saigon. Maybe once we're back home we can pour through the lot and find something worth posting.
http://www.visit-mekong.com/vietnam/thingstodo/hochiminh_city.htm